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8-minute read

For many of us with acne-prone skin, breakouts can be frustratingly linked to our menstrual cycle. In this article, Dr Katerina dives into the hormonal factors behind these monthly skin changes. By exploring how fluctuations in hormones like estrogen and progesterone impact our skin, Dr Katerina provides insight into how we can better care for our skin at every stage of the cycle. Here’s her phase-by-phase guide to what’s happening beneath the surface and how to support our skin along the way.

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Menstrual Phase
(Days 1-5 in a 28-Day Cycle)

What’s Happening in Our Body: The first day of our cycle marks the start of menstruation. Both estrogen and progesterone are at their lowest levels as the body recognizes pregnancy hasn’t occurred. Our body’s defense system is also at its lowest, and it’s common to feel drained or low-energy.

What’s Happening in Our Skin: Lower hormone levels mean sebum production decreases, often leaving skin feeling dry and dull, with fine lines being more visible.

What to Do: Gently care for your skin with hydrating products to counter dryness and prevent flakiness. Skip aggressive peels, waxing, or shaving to avoid unnecessary irritation.

Follicular Phase
(Days 6-12)

What’s Happening in Our Body: As we move into the follicular phase, our body starts to rebuild estrogen and progesterone levels, restoring energy in our bodies. This is a good time to enjoy high-energy activities.

What’s Happening in Our Skin: With increased estrogen, skin often feels refreshed, hydrated, and may take on a dewy glow.

What to Do: This phase is perfect for gentle peels, masks, and treatments to support cell renewal and enhance skin’s natural radiance.

Ovulatory Phase
(Days 13-16)

What’s Happening in Our Body: This phase leads to ovulation, a brief but dynamic stage where estrogen and luteinizing hormones reach their peak. The body feels energized and at its best.

What’s Happening in Our Skin: Our skin is at its prime—balanced, clear, and radiant, with sebum production at a balanced level.

What to Do: Consider a facial to prep skin for the next phase. Focusing on clearing pores now can help prevent clogged pores and breakouts in the luteal phase that follows.

Luteal Phase
(Days 17-28)

What’s Happening in Our Body: After ovulation, progesterone peaks, preparing the uterine lining for potential pregnancy. If pregnancy doesn’t occur, both progesterone and estrogen levels drop, triggering the shedding of the uterine lining leading to menstruation. These hormonal shifts can bring about PMS symptoms, including mood swings, bloating and fatigue.

What’s Happening in Our Skin: For acne-prone skin, the luteal phase can be a real challenge. Higher progesterone levels stimulate the sebaceous glands to produce more sebum, leaving an oilier skin feel. The excess sebum together with dead skin cells may clog our pores, leading to inflammation and acne flare-ups.
Increased sebum levels may also weaken our skin barrier and put our skin microbiome out of balance, leaving our skin more sensitive and acne-prone, especially on the chin and jawline where hormonal acne often occurs.

What to Do: Use purifying products that clear pores and manage sebum levels. Use acne patches or spot treatments as soon as you feel that blemishes are about to occur. Support the skin barrier with gentle, hydrating products to keep skin as healthy as possible.

A Note on Menstrual Cycle Regularity

A consistent menstrual cycle is a key indicator of reproductive and overall health. Irregular cycles can sometimes worsen symptoms like acne. Many factors—from stress and sleep patterns to diet and weight fluctuations—can impact cycle regularity and, subsequently, skin health. Even with a regular cycle, hormones influence sebum production, skin thickness, hydration, collagen content, sensitivity to sunlight, and even the skin microbiome.

By aligning our skincare routines with our menstrual cycle, we support our skin’s natural rhythms, fostering a deeper sense of control and harmony. Let’s continue this journey together, embracing each phase with care, patience, and the understanding that our skin—like the rest of us—is beautifully dynamic.

*This blog post provides general information and suggestions; for personalized advice, always consult a dermatologist or healthcare professional.

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Dr Katerina

Dr Katerina Steventon is a global thought leader in holistic skin health. Based in the UK, she is professionally active as a skin scientist, consultant and clinician. Her expertise stems from an MSc. in Clinical Biochemistry and a PhD. in Transdermal Absorptions, and she has international experience working for prestigious companies such as Shiseido, La Prairie, Smith & Nephew and Allured US.